[1,50] ὡς γὰρ ἔτυχον ἐν τῇ φυγῇ ποτε ἀλώμενος· καὶ πολλήν γε χάριν οἶδα τοῖς θεοῖς, ὅτι με οὐκ εἴασαν θεατὴν γενέσθαι πολλῶν καὶ ἀδίκων πραγμάτων· ἐπῄειν δ´ οὖν ὡς ἐδυνάμην πλείστην γῆν ἐν ἀγύρτου σχήματι καὶ στολῇ, τοῦτο μὲν παρ´ Ἕλληνας, τοῦτο δὲ παρὰ βαρβάρους, αἰτίζων ἀκόλους, οὐκ ἄορας οὐδὲ λέβητας. καὶ δή ποτε ἀφικόμενος εἰς Πελοπόννησον ταῖς μὲν πόλεσιν οὐ πάνυ προσῄειν, (51) περὶ δὲ τὴν χώραν διέτριβον, ἅτε πολλὴν ἱστορίαν ἔχουσαν, νομεῦσι καὶ κυνηγέταις, γενναίοις τε καὶ ἁπλοῖς ἤθεσιν, ἐπιμιγνύμενος. (52) καὶ δὴ βαδίζων ὡς ἀφ´ Ἡραίας εἰς Πῖσαν παρὰ τὸν Ἀλφειὸν μέχρι μέν τινος ἐπετύγχανον τῆς ὁδοῦ, μεταξὺ δὲ εἰς ὕλην τινὰ καὶ δυσχωρίαν ἐμπεσὼν καὶ πλείους ἀτραποὺς ἐπὶ βουκόλι´ ἄττα καὶ ποίμνας φερούσας, οὐδενὶ συναντῶν οὐδὲ δυνάμενος ἐρέσθαι, διαμαρτάνω τε καὶ ἐπλανώμην μεσημβρίᾳ σταθερᾷ. ἰδὼν οὖν ἐπὶ ὑψηλῷ τινι δρυῶν συστροφὴν οἷον ἄλσος, ᾠχόμην ὡς ἀποψόμενος ἐντεῦθεν ὁδόν τινα ἢ οἰκίαν. (53) καταλαμβάνω οὖν λίθους τέ τινας εἰκῇ ξυγκειμένους καὶ δέρματα ἱερείων κρεμάμενα καὶ ῥόπαλα καὶ βακτηρίας, νομέων τινῶν ἀναθήματα, ὡς ἐφαίνετο, ὀλίγον δὲ ἀπωτέρω καθημένην γυναῖκα ἰσχυρὰν καὶ μεγάλην, τῇ δὲ ἡλικίᾳ πρεσβυτέραν, τὰ μὲν ἄλλα ἄγροικον στολὴν ἔχουσαν, πλοκάμους δέ τινας πολιοὺς καθεῖτο. (54) ταύτην ἕκαστα ἀνηρώτων. ἣ δὲ πάνυ πρᾴως καὶ φιλοφρόνως δωρίζουσα τῇ φωνῇ τόν τε τόπον ἔφραζεν ὡς Ἡρακλέους ἱερὸς εἴη, καὶ περὶ αὑτῆς, ὅτι παῖδα ἔχοι ποιμένα καὶ πολλάκις αὐτὴ νέμοι τὰ πρόβατα· ἔχειν δὲ μαντικὴν ἐκ μητρὸς θεῶν δεδομένην, χρῆσθαι δὲ αὐτῇ τούς τε νομέας πάντας τοὺς πλησίον καὶ τοὺς γεωργοὺς ὑπὲρ καρπῶν καὶ βοσκημάτων γενέσεως καὶ σωτηρίας.

[1,50] Once when I chanced to be wandering in exile— and great is my gratitude to the gods that they thus prevented my becoming an eye-witness of many an act of injustice —I visited as many lands as possible, at one time going among Greeks, at another among barbarians, assuming the guise and dress of a vagabond beggar, " Demanding trusts, not caldrons fine nor swords." (51) At last I arrived in the Peloponnesus, and keeping quite aloof from the cities, spent my time in the country, as being quite well worth study, mingling with herdsmen and hunters, an honest folk of simple habits. As I walked along the Alpheus on my way from Heraea to Pisa, I succeeded in finding the road for some distance, but all at once I got into some woodland and rough country, where a number of trails led to sundry herds and flocks, without meeting anybody or being able to inquire my way. So I lost my direction, and at high noon was quite astray. But noticing on a high knoll a clump of oaks that looked like a sacred grove, I made my way thither in the hope of discovering from it some roadway or house. There I found blocks of stone set roughly together, hanging pelts of animals that had been sacrificed, and a number of clubs and staves—all evidently being dedications of herdsmen. At a little distance I saw a woman sitting, strong and tall though rather advanced in years, dressed like a rustic and with some braids of grey hair falling about her shoulders. Of her I made full inquiry about the place, and she most graciously and kindly, speaking in the Dorian dialect, informed me that it was sacred to Heracles and, regarding herself, that she had a son, a shepherd, whose sheep she often tended herself. She also said that the Mother of the Gods had given her the gift of divination and that all the herdsmen and farmers round about consulted her on the raising and preservation of their crops and cattle.